Offensive drivers rule in Uganda
Give way to pedestrians, they say in most parts of the world, but in Uganda it’s a totally different ball game and more a case of survival.
Much the same as the endangered Gorillas we went to see, pedestrians fall into a similar category - although not quite as drastic as these magnificent primates.
It’s not a case of survival of the fittest either, but rather those more fleet-footed than others.
Pedestrians are at the bottom of the feeding chain for want of a better word and, strictly speaking, confined to the sidewalk (if there is one).
Next up are motorcyclists who either use their machines (most of them are of the 125cc calibre) for transport or those who operate them as taxis. Three up on a machine whose rear suspension has been beefed up to carry heavier loads is a common sight and, besides humans, motorcycles are used to transport a myriad of goods, including large yellow containers for water, charcoal or Matoke, a starchy type banana.
Then come cars, most being the older variety in differing states of roadworthiness, while taxis, similar to our Hi-aces etc, rank near the top. The very top rung is occupied by buses and trucks and these are essentially kings of the road jungle.
Missing lights, indicators, and lenses are commonplace, but one piece of equipment that always works is, of course, the mandatory hooter. It’s used liberally, but not for the purpose of garnering fares. They are used for what they were designed for - warning other road users of impending or imminent danger.
Danger it is and you can picture it quite easily. You’re travelling merrily along some pothole-ridden road, minding your own business and hear a hoot behind you. In our case, Godwin, our driver, displayed some of the best defensive driving techniques I have yet witnessed.
There’s a large truck on your bumper whose driver is not taking any prisoners. If you don’t move over, they have a tendency to simply push you off the road and even tour buses carrying tourists follow this dangerous trend. Move over and watch the fun (if you can call it that) is what we learned to do as a motorist ahead would experience the same and move over.
Cars move rapidly out of the way and invariably there’s a heavily- laden motorcycle whose helmetless pilot does the same on hearing the car’s hooter. Said motorcyclists have amazing skills, too, and regardless of their cargo can make the transition from tar to gravel with consummate ease, along with the three to four inch drop between the two surfaces.
By now you’ve guessed what happens next... The motorcyclists, in their haste to avoid becoming road kill, hoot incessantly and urgently as pedestrians scatter into the bush like chaff. In short, it’s one big bun-fight albeit a very dangerous one, but an amusing scenario that plays itself out frequently.
Overtaking other vehicles yields a more serious situation and while pedestrians generally have enough room and time to avoid being too close to the oncoming traffic, motorcyclists are afforded scant respect. Overtaking occurs regardless as to how far away an oncoming biker may be at a given moment and they’re simply forced to take evasive action.
As mentioned earlier, motorcyclists rarely wear helmets, a law which the Ugandan authorities desperately want to change, but are unable to do so. With an average salary per capita of just $ 200 per annum, most citizens cannot afford to pay the fines. So the traffic authorities found out when they last tried to enforce their use and have largely abandoned the idea of compulsory head-gear. Those who even own a helmet simply drape it over the headlight. It may get used to counter extreme dust or rain but that’s about it.
On the subject of roads, Uganda is typically third-world, although in fairness it’s come a long way since Idi Amin was disposed of. Nevertheless, I shudder to think how the roads looked like then. If they were in fair condition 30 years ago they are now abysmal.
Even the roads leading to Kigali, a major tourist location where Chimpanzees are the stars, or the Gorilla kingdom Bwindi, near the Congolese/Rwanda borders, are in a shocking state. A trip back from our lodge at Lake Bunyoni to Entebbe took an exhausting 11 hours and we only had 430km to travel.
Tourism is one of Uganda’s top money-spinners but they’re going to have to throw dollops of money at roads leading to these prized venues to ensure the continued influx of US dollars.
They’ll also have to put a bit more effort into road safety and driver education to minimise the impact that serious injuries and fatalities can have on a slowly recovering economy.
